
Concrete
Concrete
Read more403 Navaho Dr, Frederick, MD 21701

Pavers in Frederick & Central MD
Paver patios, walkways and driveways across Frederick and Central Maryland — built on a deep, properly compacted base with real edge restraint, so the surface stays flat and locked instead of settling into ruts.
Quick answer
A properly based concrete or brick paver patio generally runs $18 to $40 per square foot installed, putting a common 300 square foot patio somewhere between $6,000 and $13,000. Natural stone runs higher, roughly $35 to $60 per square foot. Driveways cost more per foot than patios because they need a much deeper base and thicker pavers to carry vehicle loads.
The work
A paver installation is a base with a decorative surface on top. Almost every sunken, wavy or weed-filled patio in Maryland is a base problem, not a paver problem — too shallow, not compacted in lifts, or no edge restraint to keep the field from spreading.
Pavers do have one genuine advantage over poured concrete here: they are individually replaceable, and a segmental surface handles freeze-thaw movement better than one monolithic slab does.
Maryland paver installation, materials and labour, 2026. Published sources for this trade disagree widely, so these are deliberately wide bands — paver selection, cut-heavy shapes, grading and drainage all move them.
Ranges, not quotes. Real numbers come from a walkthrough — access, condition, height and finish level move a price more than square footage does. Estimates are free and in writing.
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Call and describe the job. You’ll get a straight answer on whether it’s something we do and roughly what it runs.
(301) 524-1729
Self-performed
Paver Patios & Walkways
What’s included
Written into the estimate, not assumed. If something on your job is not on this list, it gets priced and named before anyone starts.
Dug out to the depth the use requires — deeper for a driveway than a patio — with the subgrade checked before any stone goes in.
Graded aggregate base placed and compacted in layers, not dumped to full depth and rolled once. This is the entire job.
A consistent bedding course screeded flat, so every paver sits on the same thickness rather than being tapped down to level.
Running bond, herringbone or basketweave set out to the space, with saw cuts kept clean and borders run true.
Proper edge restraint around the whole perimeter, then polymeric sand swept and set — this is what keeps weeds and ants out of the joints.
Retaining walls, seat walls and paver steps built with the drainage and base they need behind them, not just stacked to height.
On the job
What the trade looks like at each stage. Photos of our own recent jobs come out at the walkthrough, on the actual house.




Straight answers
Not covered here? Call and ask — you’ll get a real answer, not a “depends on the job”.
Because the base is invisible and it is the most expensive part of the job. The cheapest way to quote a paver patio is to dig shallow, skip compacting in lifts, thin out the bedding layer and leave off the edge restraint — and the finished patio looks identical on handover day. It stops looking identical in about two years, when it starts to settle and the joints open. If one quote is dramatically lower than the others, ask all of them what excavation depth and base thickness they priced, and compare that instead of the totals.
Sometimes. If the slab is sound, drains properly and the added height does not create a problem at doors, thresholds and steps, an overlay can work. If the slab is cracked, heaved or holding water, laying pavers on top just inherits every one of those problems. We check the slab before quoting it either way.
Anything rated for freeze-thaw, which most modern concrete and clay brick pavers are. The bigger climate decision is the base and the drainage under them, not the unit on top — a premium paver on a poor base fails faster than a budget paver on a good one.
Concrete costs less up front and gives you a single clean surface. Pavers cost more but handle freeze-thaw movement better because the surface is segmental, and any damaged unit can be lifted and swapped rather than patched. In Maryland's climate, that repairability is a real advantage over a fifteen-year horizon.
Almost always the base. Too shallow for the use, not compacted in lifts, or no edge restraint so the field spreads outward and the joints open. Done properly, a paver surface should still be flat well past a decade.
Polymeric sand, swept in and activated correctly, binds the joints and blocks most weed and ant intrusion. It needs topping up every few years, and it only works if the base and edge restraint are keeping the joints tight in the first place.
Yes. Those need their own base, drainage aggregate and often geogrid behind them depending on height — a wall that was just stacked to height without drainage is the one that leans out after a wet spring.
While the crew is there

Talk to the people doing the work
Tell us what needs doing. We’ll walk it with you, sequence every trade it touches, put the price in writing, and leave you to decide.
Get a quote
Two short steps. No obligation, no pressure — just a clear number and a straight answer about what the job involves.




Tick as many as you like. Most jobs are two or three of them at once, and I sort out the detail when I come and look. Nobody gets turned away for choosing the wrong box.